Friday, December 30, 2011

Vermicomposting - How To Make Worm Castings

!±8± Vermicomposting - How To Make Worm Castings

We have all heard of composting. Composting is simply the decomposition of organic waste like yard waste and kitchen waste into a very rich and nutritional dirt-like substance. Vermicomposting is very similar to composting, but vermicomposting uses worms to help speed up the composting process, resulting in a final product of a soil-like amendment which is literally loaded with nutrients for plants.

The first thing to know point out is that the worms about which we are talking are not your everyday backyard worms. Those little guys would die in a minute in a compost pile. The worms needed for vermicomposting are called Red Wrigglers. These Red Wrigglers love to spend their time in piles of manure and love eating organic waste, which is why they are so perfect for the job of vermicomposting. The worms that you find in your backyard garden are usually regular field worms which would not be able to survive in a pile of kitchen waste.

When considering what size bin you want to use, the container should be on the shallow side rather than really deep. It should also be wider than it is tall. The surface of the container should be about one square foot for every pound of waste you wish to place in it each week. There should be about 500 red wrigglers equaling about a half-pound for every cubic foot of the container. The container should have plenty of air holes, since air is necessary not only for the composting process, but for the worms' survival as well. There should also be holes on the bottom of the container to allow drainage. There should be a screen covering each air hole and drainage hole to guarantee that the holes do not become worm holes or compost holes as well as air holes and/or drainage holes. If you produce too much organic waste for one normal sized container, it is much easier to maintain several small worm containers than one really big one.

To keep your worms happy, it is important to make sure that they are in an environment with the proper temperature, ventilation, and moisture. The air holes should be able to provide the necessary ventilation. There should be enough moisture to give the compost pile the feel of a wrung out sponge - not too wet, but not too dry. The temperature should be room temperature. Although worms can survive in a wide range of temperatures, anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit, they will be the happiest and therefore do their best work if they are at a comfortable room temperature.

There should be bedding on the surface of the container. This bedding should consist of shredded paper if the container will remain indoors. If the container will be kept outdoors, the bedding can consist of shredded paper or organic yard waste, such as dried grass clippings, sawdust, mulched dried leaves, etc. Yard waste should NOT be placed in an indoor container, because they can cause the compost pile to heat-up significantly which may kill your worms.

You can feed your worms a large variety of foods. Red Wrigglers will eat just about any organic kitchen waste you may produce, including carrots lettuce, cabbage, celery, banana peels, and tea bags. Tomatoes, coffee grounds, and citrus peels can be added into the container but only in moderation, since the acid could kill the worms. They also like to eat small amounts of bread, pancakes, grains, and noodles. Chopping up the food before you put it in the container will help it decompose.

You should harvest the vermicompost every two months or so. You will know that it is ready to be harvested when you can no longer make out the waste or the bedding, since they will have already decomposed. A good way to harvest without taking out the worms is to shine a light over the pile. This will chase the worms deeper into the pile in about ten minutes. You can then scrape up the top layer of vermicompost. Keep the light on to chase the worms even deeper into the pile, and then take out the next layer, and so on. It is very important to not take out any worm eggs that may be in the pile. They will hatch and turn into more worms which could make your vermicompost pile better, or enable you to use them to start another vermicompost container.

Once you have the vermicompost out of the container, you can use it to help just about anything grow. You can add some into your houseplants; you can sprinkle it on your flowerbeds; you can add it into the soil in which you want to plant seeds; and you can even sprinkle it around your lawn to help your lawn grow.

Visit http://www.1800topsoil.com for more articles and resources on topsoil and gardening and to use our topsoil calculator.


Vermicomposting - How To Make Worm Castings

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Sunday, December 25, 2011

Achla Designs CMP-05 Spinning Composter Horizontal

!±8± Achla Designs CMP-05 Spinning Composter Horizontal

Brand : Achla | Rate : | Price : $151.96
Post Date : Dec 25, 2011 17:17:25 | Usually ships in 1 to 2 days

The Achla Spinning Horizontal Composter lets you steer those table scraps and garden waste away from the local landfill and put it to work feeding the microorganisms in your garden. Inside ridges help break up big clumps. The composter is made from 100-percent recycled plastic and resists pesky rodents. A sliding door provides easy access. The compster holds 7 cubic feet and rests on an included stand. It measures 33 x 39 x 36 inches and weighs 36 pounds.

  • Made from recycled plastic
  • Seven cubic feet capacity
  • Minimizes landfill waste
  • Rodent proof
  • Features easy access sliding door

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Monday, December 12, 2011

Lifetime 60021 75-Gallon Compost Tumbler, Black

!±8± Lifetime 60021 75-Gallon Compost Tumbler, Black

Brand : Lifetime Products | Rate : | Price : $179.99
Post Date : Dec 12, 2011 15:17:08 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) Plastic, Powder-Coated steel
  • Tumbler Capacity; 75 gallon, 10 cubic feet
  • Double walled panels to absorb and retain the heat that decomposes the material
  • Internal bar mixes the compost and allows the flow of oxygen
  • Tumbler easy turns on its axis for balanced rotation

More Specification..!!

Lifetime 60021 75-Gallon Compost Tumbler, Black

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Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Dual-Batch Compost Tumbler

!±8± Dual-Batch Compost Tumbler

Brand : Gardener's Supply Company | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 08, 2011 01:42:23 | N/A


Batch composting is the fastest and most efficient way to produce high quality compost, and this dual bin tumbler makes it easy. Fill one side with kitchen scraps and yard waste, then stop adding materials and let it "cook," turning it every few days to speed up the decomposition process. In the meantime, add your scraps to the other side. When the first batch of compost is finished, remove it and repeat the process, letting the other side cook.

More Specification..!!

Dual-Batch Compost Tumbler

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Tumbleweed 200003 58-Gallon Rotating Compost Bin, Green

!±8±Tumbleweed 200003 58-Gallon Rotating Compost Bin, Green

Brand : Tumbleweed
Rate :
Price : $142.00
Post Date : Dec 02, 2011 11:00:06
Usually ships in 24 hours



The Tumbleweed compost tumbler has a neat, compact design makes it an ideal compost bin for any level composter with any amount of garden space. By giving the Tumbleweed a spin every few days, it's easy to create fresh compost. The 100% UV protected, recycled plastic is a dark green color. When the sun hits the dark compost bin, it heats up the contents inside, speeding up the breakdown process. A stainless steel bar going through the compost bin breaks up any larger clumps that might form, further helping the breakdown process. The galvanized steel leg base makes this composting unit extremely sturdy, no matter how heavy the compost inside gets. These legs won't rust, so the composter will last many years out in the elements. With dual-end twist lock lids, it's easy to add or remove material no matter which end is up. The locking lids also prevent any small animal pests from getting into the bin. The lids are also vented, keeping the compost aerated while allowing any compost tea to drain out into the soil under the bin. The Tumbleweed compost tumbler holds up to 58 gallons of materials while continuously breaking down kitchen scraps, yard debris and other compostable materials into rich, organic compost that plants will love.

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Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Growing Your Best Tomatoes

!±8± Growing Your Best Tomatoes

Tomatoes are arguably the most popular homegrown crop in the United States. What makes them so popular? Most tomato lovers would agree that the best-tasting tomatoes in the world are those that are homegrown in a backyard garden. Furthermore, tomatoes are an easy crop to grow, yielding fruit in almost any soil type, provided they get 5-6 hours of sunlight a day. Even if you don't have a dedicated garden, per say, most homeowners can find at least a few square feet of their landscaping where they can put a tomato plant.

If you are interested in putting a few tomato plants in your garden this year, we've got some great tips to help you grow your best tomatoes ever!

The first decision in homegrown tomatoes is whether you want to start them yourself from seed, or if you'll purchase young plants from a nursery. For the less-serious home gardener, who just wants a few of your average homegrown tomatoes to eat, the usual varieties found in a nursery will do just fine, plus you'll save the time and trouble of growing them from seed. However, if you are planting on a large scale, starting from seed can be much more economical than buying young plants. Furthermore, if you want to grow any specific varieties of tomatoes besides your average beefsteak, Better Boy, or Early Girl, you may be forced to start the plants from seed. Pear tomatoes, yellow tomatoes, heirloom tomatoes and others are varieties that nurseries don't typically sell as young plants.

Proper fertilization techniques are vital for growing your best tomatoes. If starting indoors from seed, you should fertilize when the first set of leaves appear on the seedlings. In the early stages, you'll want to use a fertilizer that's high in nitrogen, because this will help the plants to grow strong. However, when the plants get large enough that they begin forming blossoms, it is recommended to switch over to a fertilizer that's higher in phosphorus and potassium. Too much nitrogen during the fruiting stages will result in plenty of vine and very little fruit.

If you do grow your tomatoes indoors from seed, it's important to harden them off before moving them outdoors. There are many ways to accomplish this. You could set up a small fan to blow gently on the plants indoors. When the daytime temperatures are warm enough, you could also begin setting the plants outdoors for several hours a day, gradually increasing their time outdoors and length of time in the sun, day by day. Eventually the plants will be ready to set outside.

When planting tomatoes, it is important to plant deeply. When planting, you should bury at least half to three quarters of the plant, so that only the top few branches are sticking out. New roots will eventually form all along the stem that you submerge in the soil, making the plant stronger.

Among tomato growers, there is wide debate about whether to pick or not to pick suckers. Suckers are secondary stems that form on all tomato plant, and they grow from the joint of the main stem and the primary branches. There are two fields of thought about this. If you allow suckers to grow, they will sap much of the energy from the plant's main stem. Allowing suckers to grow on an indeterminate plant will result in an enormous, sprawling tomato plant that, by season's end, can be difficult to manage. On the other hand, if you remove all the suckers from your tomato plant, the plant will become very spindly, without very many leaves. When you have a tomato plant that isn't bushy enough, the fruits themselves will be more susceptible to discoloration and sunspots because they don't get adequate shading from the plant itself. In general, for more home gardeners, it is recommended to allow some of your suckers to grow in the beginning, but by mid-season, to begin removing suckers and continue doing so until the plants are finished in the fall.

Lastly, be sure to keep a close eye out for any diseased plants. While many varieties of tomatoes have been hybridized to be disease resistant, there are still some plants that will be susceptible to common tomato problems such as fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. If you notice a plant that looks unhealthy, you should attempt to diagnose the problem as quickly as possible, and potentially remove the plant all together. Many diseases affecting tomatoes will spread rapidly from one plant to another, and it's always better to sacrifice one plant than to risk your entire crop of tomatoes.

Tomatoes are not a difficult plant to grow. Even the gardener with the blackest of thumbs can usually produce a decent crop of tomatoes with very little effort. However, if you do provide them with a little extra care and nurturing, you'll be rewarded with your best tomatoes ever!


Growing Your Best Tomatoes

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Jane's Compost Yard and Worm Condo BlenditandMendit

www.blenditandmendit.com No VitaMix green smoothie today - instead I'm taking you behind the scenes and showing you my compost yard and worm condo. I received a request for this after mentioning compost in yesterday's video How To Cut A Pineapple and Instant Lunch. Thanks for the suggestion, it was fun!Make this and post your comments and questions! Download my FREE Anti-Aging NOW 7 Day Support Protocol. Just visit www.BlenditandMendit.com. Thanks! Dutiful Disclaimer Do Your Own Work and Make Your Own Decisions "I am not a doctor. I am not a nutritionist. I am not a guru. I am but a simple peasant girl who learns by doing and I present this information from my personal experience. Don't take my word for it. Do not believe me "just because". Do your own work and make your own decisions. Thanks!" Jane Do Not Construe As Medical Advice Or Treatment All content herein is the sole opinion of the author and in no way is intended to be or should be construed as medical advice or treatment. The reader of this information is solely responsible for his or her actions and the consequences thereof. If you want, need or seek medical advice or treatment, see a doctor.

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Tips For Easy Composting Using Compost Tumblers, Bins, Or a Pitchfork and Pile

!±8± Tips For Easy Composting Using Compost Tumblers, Bins, Or a Pitchfork and Pile

There are certain tried and true procedures for good compost making. It's more than just throwing anything into a pile and expecting to get good results! What you'll end up with a mucky mess or a dried out pile infested with ants or other pests. Here are some time proven tips:

1. It's OK to compost poisonous plants, such as rhubarb, yew, or poison oak, etc., because the heat during compost making will break down all the toxins. If you have some poisonous plants that need disposed of, don't burn them! The smoke will get in your lungs and can cause all sorts of problems. Just put them in our compost pile.

2. To have successful compost, you need a mix of green materials, such as grass clippings, kitchen refuse, cow and chicken manure, and sturdier brown materials, such as twigs, cardboard, paper, plant trimmings. The larger pieces keep the pile from matting down and turning to goo. After your compost is finished, if you still have some twigs or other bigger pieces, you can sift them out and put them in your next batch.

3. Don't add diseased plant material to your compost heap.

4. Don't compost dog feces or cat litter boxes, cooked food, fats, or disposable baby diapers. Cow and horse manure, poultry manure and the bedding in your barns is great for compost making.

5. It's necessary to keep the pile moist, but not overly wet or it won't get enough oxygen (aerobic) and than will be considered an anaerobic (without oxygen) pile. Anaerobic piles take much longer to decompose.

6. Whatever method of compost making you use, the pile must be turned or rotated frequently. This properly aerates the pile and speeds up the decomposition process.

7. Keep a compost crock or compost pail in your kitchen so you have an easy way to transport your kitchen refuse to the compost pile. Both come with filters to control odor.

8. If you don't generate enough materials, get leavings from canneries, or all that produce they toss out at Farmer's Markets, ask you neighbors for their lawn cuttings, get barn sweepings from farmers, or ask if you can go out in their pastures and collect "cow pies." You are only limited by your own imagination and resourcefulness.

Here are some different methods of compost making:

You can have a successful compost pile using just a pitchfork. All you need to do is keep the pile together and turn it frequently. Don't let the edges get too dry, or the top get too wet. You might have a problem with rats, ants, and other pests with an unprotected, uncontained pile.

The use of a compost bin protects your pile from pests and helps keep the moisture even. There are many available for purchase; however, these are simple to build with wooden stakes, wood pallets, chicken wire, wire mesh or a host of other materials.

The use of compost tumblers is the easiest. There are several varieties available from drum shapes you roll on the ground to elaborate crank operated systems. Some come with internal baffles to help the compost materials aerate better. You either roll the drum around the yard or turn a handle or crank to aerate your compost. No need to use a pitchfork.

Here's another suggestion - in the Autumn when there is a surplus of leaves, it is a better idea to put them in a black plastic sack and make leafmold. The process will take about a year or so and definitely be good for your garden.

The time it takes for your compost to finish varies depending on the materials you've included, the time of year, and the type of compost making method you have chosen. When it is finished, you will have something very good for your garden, and it was all from free materials that you saved from the landfill.


Tips For Easy Composting Using Compost Tumblers, Bins, Or a Pitchfork and Pile

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

Lifetime 60028 65-Gallon Compost Tumbler

!±8± Lifetime 60028 65-Gallon Compost Tumbler


Rate : | Price : $142.44 | Post Date : Nov 17, 2011 18:15:25
Usually ships in 24 hours

Going green? Recycle your vegetable scraps into a nutritious fertilizer for your vegetable and flower gardens with the Lifetime 65 gal. Composter. It is constructed with heavy-duty black panels to absorb and retain the heat that decomposes the organic material. An internal mixing bar allows the flow of oxygen to break it down into a fine fertilizer. The lightweight 65 gallon tumbler turns on its axis for balanced rotation. Extra-large removable lid allows easy access for filling and dumping. With your compost ingredients enclosed inside the composter tub, you will not be subjected to an unsightly, smelly, fly attracting, open-air compost heap in your garden. And no more turning it all with a pitchfork. Save your back, save your money, with the convenient Lifetime 65 gal. composter.

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

How to Cheat at Composting

compostinstructions.com Cheating at composting? Can it be? It's easy. You can use fertilizer in the compost pile and get it nice and wet to where it's mixed in - some nitrogen rich fertilizer will heat up your compost pile. Of course, you might not want to do this, as you are taking something natural and mixing it with something unnatural and expensive, but it's an easy way to get that compost pile nice and hot if need be.

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Thursday, October 27, 2011

Good Ideas 7-Cubic-Foot Compost Wizard Jr.

!±8± Good Ideas 7-Cubic-Foot Compost Wizard Jr.

Brand : Good Ideas Inc | Rate : | Price : $159.99
Post Date : Oct 27, 2011 03:54:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


Please welcome the 7 cubic foot Compost Wizard Jr. This little guy is the scaled down version of its 12 cubic foot kin. The Jr. holds 7 cubic feet of compost and sits on a wheeled base. The handles now provide better grip to make turning even easier. The 12-inch twist off lid keeps your compost safely closed off but is easy to remove and even doubles as an extra turning point. The ends feature aeration holes which provide much needed airflow for the compost batch with the option of drilling more for those who live in areas with low air currents. The wheeled base allows owners to turn the bin effortlessly and can easily be separated to allow the bin to roll freely from place to place. The low profile ensures that it stays out of sight and won't be blown over in high winds like other tumbler composters. The resin material used to mold the bin is 100% recycled and the rich dark color absorbs the sun's heat keeping your compost at a nice hot temperature. Comes fully assembled and requires little maintenance. Just turn once a week and after addition of new material and you can see compost in as little as 14 days. Help keep organic waste out of our landfills by getting a Compost Wizard Jr. today.

More Specification..!!

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